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WOOL COMFORTMETER FACT SHEET The instrument The Wool ComfortMeterTM was developed for the Sheep CRC by CSIRO and essentially counts the number of fibres protruding from a fabric that can cause discomfort. As the number of these fibres increases, so too does the level of discomfort. To relate the Wool Comfortmeter values to the human sensation of comfort, a series of wearer trials were developed and run over 4 years in "The Garment Laboratory" by a team of experts in the WA Department of Agriculture and Food. Their protocol enabled the accurate measurement of consumer responses to garments when worn in different conditions and for various activities. This information has been used to calibrate the Wool ComfortMeter. The measurement Information is everything in a supply-chain and the next to skin comfort of knitwear is critical for the retailer in knowing the garments fitness for purpose and to the consumer as a basis for their decision to repurchase. Much of the industry currently uses perceived softness as an indicator of next to skin comfort, however, this has been shown by our research to be highly unreliable. The Wool ComfortMeter is a non-destructive test that can be performed on fabric or garments. It is recommended that 5 fabric samples (each sample about 30cm X 30cm) are used to test a fabric. Each fabric sample is placed on the testing bed and the measuring head makes 4 passes over the sample. The WCM value is the average of the results of 5 samples. The instrument gives a single value for the fabric. Next to Skin Comfort vs WCM value Moderate Prickle 4 Wearer Trial Ratings Low Moderate 3 Prickle Slight prickle 2 Threshhold Prickle 1 No Prickle 0 0 100 200 300 400 500 600 700 800 900 WCM Value The results There is already a very good predictive relationship between the Wool ComfortMeter values and the results of the large scale wearer trials as can be seen in the above graph. . The above figure shows the strong relationship between the Wool ComfortMeter value and the average response from wearers in a cool passive environment. The lower the Wool ComfortMeter value the more comfortable the garment. Interpreting results The results are displayed as a single number where the lower the value the better the garment is for next to skin applications. Values below 400 are associated with the average wearer not perceiving any discomfort when wearing the garment. Values above 400 are associated with greater levels of perceived discomfort. For further information on the Wool ComfortMeter go to : http://www.sheepcrc.org.au/wool/wool-measurement-pilot-project.php
Real measures of COMFORT FOR WOOL KNITWEAR Australian wool-fibre researchers are steadily building the case for a world-first: using a special instrument to measure the next-to-skin comfort of wool. Background The knitwear market represents almost 60% of consumer expenditure on wool apparel, however, there are constraints to the growth of wool's market share as traditional wool knitwear suffers from real and perceived concerns with comfort: 2 in 5 consumers associate the word `wool' with `prickle or itch', yet there is no fabric specification system to address it. To address these constraints, rigorous and reliable fabric and fibre specifications are required together with measuring devices for quality assurance. Australian researchers in the Sheep CRC are well on the way to delivering them. Image courtesy AWI Delivering measurable and predictable quality Information is everything in a supply-chain. Retailers and manufacturers will be able to specify a value for comfort in their buying orders; this in turn will generate specifications for wool types and processing procedures to meet these requirements. Goal The research program's ultimate goal is to take the market for casual, lightweight, next-to-skin products to new levels. Once we can guarantee comfort we can build on wool's position of being natural and sustainable, and its advantages in moisture, heat and odour management. The Wool ComfortMeterTM The instrument The Wool ComfortMeterTM was developed by the Sheep CRC through a group of CSIRO researchers and essentially counts the number of fibres protruding from a fabric that can cause discomfort. As the number of these fibres increases, so too does the discomfort. To relate the Wool ComfortMeterTM values to human sensation of comfort a series of wearer trials were run. These trials were carried out in "The Garment Laboratory" by a team of experts in the WA Department of Agriculture and Food. Their protocol enabled the accurate measurement of consumer responses to garments when worn in different conditions and for various activities. This information has been used to calibrate the ComfortMeterTM. e sheep that produc h t d e them t an Transforming wool, mea Research results, so far ... There is already a very good predictive relationship between the ComfortMeterTM and results of the large scale wearer trials and as a greater range of garments and fabrics are tested, confidence in the instrument continues to increase. The figure shows the strong linear relationship between the ComfortMeterTM value and the average response from wearers. The lower the wearer score the more comfortable the garment. Each value is an average of between 25 and 50 wearers. A Garment Laboratory Technician is recording a participant's response to a garment whilst walking in a controlled environment. Image courtesy of the Garment Laboratory Commercialisation The Sheep CRC has completed training and demonstration trials with some of the world's largest knitwear manufacturers. These commercial trials will continue with key supply chain companies to confirm the relevance and value of the Wool ComfortMeterTM for use in product development and quality assurance. Full commercialisation and launch of the Wool ComfortMeterTM technology is expected to occur in 2013. Circular knitting machine. Image courtesy of CSIRO About The Sheep CRC The Australian Sheep Industry Cooperative Research Centre (Sheep CRC) is a partnership of the country's key industry bodies working with researchers to turn innovations into successful new products, services and technologies. The Sheep CRC's work involves a collaboration including Australian Wool Innovation (AWI), The Merino Company (TMC), Australian Wool Testing Authority (AWTA) and other Australian and overseas supply chain companies that provide products for testing and evaluation, technical expertise, and commercial focus. More information is available via: http://www.sheepcrc.org.au/wool-quality.php e sheep that produc h t d e them t an Transforming wool, mea
WOOL HANDLEMETER FACT SHEET The instrument The `Wool HandleMeter' is based on a traditional technique used for centuries whereby a woman would assess the quality of a fabric by passing it through her wedding ring ­ the easier the fabric passed through the softer the fabric would feel. This age old technique separates fabrics based on their extensibility, stiffness, surface roughness and friction. Researchers used a panel of experienced judges to calibrate the Wool HandleMeter and can now predict the judges ratings for smoothness, softness, warm feel, dry feel, hairiness, tightness and perceived weight based on the test results. The Wool HandleMeter now provides an objective, repeatable value which encapsulates fabric handle for lightweight jersey fabrics. The measurement Information is everything in a supply-chain and the handle of knitwear is critical to the manufacturer for acceptance of their products and to the consumer as a basis for their ultimate purchase decision. The Wool HandleMeter is a destructive test and requires about 0.25m2 of fabric. The test is performed on circular fabric samples of 100 cm2 in size. Four (4) fabric samples are cut for each fabric to be tested. For each test a sample is placed centrally on the testing bed. The test occurs automatically when first a weight is lowered onto the fabric sample and then a plunger pushes the sample through a circular nozzle. The Wool HandleMeter values are calculated from the average of the results of all samples tested. The Wool HandleMeter provides a single value in the range of 1 to 10 for each Handle attribute. This figure to the left shows the level of agreement between the Wool HandleMeter (measured softness) and the expert panel (assessed softness) in judging the "Softness" of a series of 52 lightweight jersey fabrics. Individual judges do vary slightly in their evaluation of a fabric. The Wool HandleMeter was shown to be as accurate as having two experts assessing the Softness of a fabric. The results The results from the Wool HandleMeter are presented as the individual values for each Handle attribute. Also included is a value for Overall fabric handle. This trait is associated with a luxurious handle and the higher the number the more luxurious the handle. Each handle attribute is described using two opposite terms. This provides a clearer definition of the handle term e.g hard (0) - soft (10). The results for all handle attributes are displayed in a form where the higher the value the stronger the perception of the term on the right. Retailers and manufacturers will soon be able to use a common language to specify fabric handle in their lightweight jersey products; this in turn will generate product consistency based on objective values rather than the existing subjective appraisals. Interpreting results Fabric handle requirements will vary for different products and markets so a balance between attributes will be required. To achieve a specific fabric handle might require a low value in some traits and high values in others. For further information on the Wool HandleMeter go to : http://www.sheepcrc.org.au/wool/wool-measurement-pilot-project.php
Real measures of wool knitwear handle Australian Sheep CRC researchers have developed a system to specify fabric handle in next-to-skin knitted fabrics. Using a speciallydeveloped instrument and software, The Wool HandleMeterTM, we can accurately predict 7 key fabric handle attributes that describe lightweight knitted fabrics. The attributes are smoothness, softness, warm feel, dry feel, hairiness, tightness and weight. The Wool HandleMeterTM is currently undergoing commercial trialing to evaluate its performance. Background Image courtesy of AWI The knitwear market represents about 60% of consumer expenditure on wool apparel and the "Handle" or hand feel of the garment is an important component of the purchase decision. There are opportunities to improve wool's market share in next-to-skin knitwear through the development of high quality products with superior fabric handle and comfort. To address these opportunities, rigorous and reliable fabric and fibre specifications are required together with measuring devices for quality assurance. Australian researchers in the Sheep CRC are well on the way to delivering them. Goal The research program's ultimate goal is to take the market for casual, lightweight, next-to-skin products to new levels. In conjunction with the Wool ComfortMeterTM, the Wool HandleMeterTM will provide the tools to overcome the misconception that if a fabric feels soft it will be comfortable next to the skin, and take advantage of wool's inherent quality as an apparel fibre. It will build on wool's position of being natural and sustainable, and underpin its advantages in moisture, heat and odour management. Delivering measurable and predictable quality Information is everything in a supply-chain. Retailers and manufacturers will be able to specify a value for fabric handle and comfort in their buying orders; this in turn will generate specifications for wool types and processing procedures to meet these requirements. e sheep that produc h t d e them t an Transforming wool, mea The instrument The `Wool HandleMeterTM' was developed by the Sheep CRC. It is based on a traditional technique used for centuries whereby a woman would assess the quality of a fabric by passing it through her wedding ring ­ the easier the fabric passed through the softer the fabric would feel. This age old technique separates fabrics based on their extensibility, stiffness, surface roughness and friction. Researchers have measured a range of over 70 next-to-skin knitted fabrics and also had them assessed by a panel of experienced judges for smoothness, softness, warm feel, dry feel, hairiness, tightness and perceived weight. The Wool HandleMeterTM has been able to predict the judges ratings for these fabric handle attributes based on the test results ­ an objective, repeatable value which encapsulate fabric handle. Image showing the pattern of fabric deformation during a HandleMeterTM test Commercialisation The Sheep CRC will soon be undertaking commercial trials with key supply chain companies using the equipment and research information for fabric development and quality assessment to evaluate the performance of the Wool HandleMeterTM. "This technology has been developed in conjunction with experienced judges from supply chain companies. The research demonstrates that while these judges gave similar ratings to a wide range of fabrics, there were also individual differences in handle preference. The new CRC technology provides a consistent, objective value for attributes of aesthetic fabric quality which are important in the final purchase decision." -- Trevor Mahar, Leader of the Australian Sheep CRC Fabric Handle Project. About The Sheep CRC The Cooperative Research Centre for Sheep Industry Innovation (Sheep CRC) is a partnership of the country's key industry bodies working with researchers to turn innovations into successful new products, services and technologies. The Sheep CRC's work involves a collaboration including Australian Wool Innovation (AWI), The Merino Company, Australian Wool Testing Authority (AWTA) and other Australian and overseas supply chain companies that provide products for testing and evaluation, technical expertise, and commercial focus. More information is available via: http://www.sheepcrc.org.au/research/wool-quality.php e sheep that produc h t d e them t an Transforming wool, mea
INFORMATION FACT SHEET APEO ANALYSIS Summary The analysis identifies and quantifies the residual level APEO (Alkylphenolethoxylates) compounds in semiprocessed wools (scoured, carbonised or wool top). APEOs (often called alkylphenols or alkylphenyls) are surfactants. In the textile industry, they are used in detergents in scouring, coating or waterproofing agents, and in dyeing. The most common of these are NPEO (nonylphenolethoxylates) and OPEO (octylphenolethoxylates). Concerns over the toxicity and ecological impact of these compounds have seen restrictions put in place on their use and permissible residual levels in wool. The service is offered by the Product Testing division of AWTA Limited. Samples of scoured or carbonised wool are collected at the Raw Wool Laboratories and sent to our partner facility of JinAo located in Nanjing, China. Wool top samples can also be tested, and customers should send these in sealed bags directly to an AWTA Laboratory. The completed test results are compiled, reported and invoiced by the Product Testing division. Service: An AWTA Scoured/Carbonised Core Test Request or Guidance Report Request should be included with the samples, and "APEO Test" written in the "OTHER" section of the form. AWTA Product Testing requires approximately 300g for APEO analysis, so if this is being requested in addition to other services, please ensure sufficient sample is present for all the requested tests. The Lead Time for testing is approximately 10 days from sample receipt. Electronic and hard copy certificates will be provided to customers. Fees: Pricing is in Australian Dollars and does not include GST. APEO Testing is $230.00 per sample and includes sample freight to the JinAo Laboratory and test reports. Contact Us For more information on this service contact AWTA Product Testing or Raw Wool on: AWTA Product Testing: Melbourne Laboratory: +61 (0)3 9371 2400 +61 (0)3 9371 2100 or or [email protected] [email protected] AWTA Product Testing, APEO Fact Sheet ­ October 2013
NEW NATA ACCREDITATION THERMAL RESISTANCE TESTING Background AWTA Product Testing is pleased to announce that the laboratory has achieved NATA accreditation to conduct testing to ASTM C518 and AS/NZS 4859.1 using a LaserComp Fox600 Heat Flow Meter Apparatus. This unit is widely considered to be one of the most appropriate, precise and accurate instruments available. The Fox600 was designed in accordance with the requirements of ASTM C518 "Standard Test Method for Steadystate Heat Flux Measurements and Thermal Transmission Properties by Means of the Heat Flow Meter Apparatus" and is applicable to those standards quoted in the AWTA Product Testing Laboratory's scope. The process which has been extensive and extremely thorough culminated in accreditation being granted on Friday 22nd November, 2013. NATA Certification AWTA Product Testing may carry out thermal testing according to the following scope: Thermal Conductivity Measurement of thermal conductivity of samples at temperatures ranging from 5 to 650C with a thermal resistance of not less than 0.01 m2KW1 with least uncertainties of measurement of 8.4% in the range 0.0084 to 0.85 Wm1K1 and 0.0084 to 8.40 m2PaW1, by the methods of ISO 11092 (Textiles) and ASTM F1868. Measurement of thermal conductivity of samples in the range of 0.01 0.2 W/mK at thicknesses of 2 to 200mm with least uncertainties of measurement of 3.9% by the methods of: ASTM C518 Steady State Thermal Transmission Properties by means of Heat Flow Meter Apparatus ASTM C653 Determination of Thermal Resistance of Low Density Blanket Type Mineral Fibre Insulation AS/NZS 4859.1 Appendix D Determination of Thermal Resistance of LowDensity Fibrous Insulation using ASTM C653 with variations Measurement of physical dimensions of thermal insulation by the methods of: ASTM C167 Thickness and Density of Blanket or Batt Thermal Insulations Tests and examinations for compliance with AS/NZS 4859.1 Materials for the thermal insulation of buildings, Clause 2.3.2 for the following material types: Formed shapes, Formed in situ, Low density fibrous materials, and Reflective membranes. Tests and examinations for compliance with AS/NZS 4859.1 Materials for the thermal insulation of buildings, Section 3 Packaging and Labelling. Fees AUD $635.00 (+GST if applicable) for ASTM C518 and AUD $1,540.00 (+GST if applicable) for AS/NZS4859.1 Sample sizes are 2 specimens each 610mm x 610mm for ASTM C518 and 27m2 or typically 3 unopened commercial packs for AS/NZS4859.1 Contact Us For more information contact AWTA Product Testing on: +61 (0)3 9371 2400 or [email protected] www.awtaproducttesting.com.au AWTA Product Testing, Thermal Resistance Testing ­ Information Sheet (November 2013)